A Beer Tourist’s Guide to…Mexico City

Mexican beer hasn’t always had the best rep among the nerds aficionados, but long gone are the days where Corona, Dos Equis and Modelo are the only options. Relative proximity to fresh hops on the US west coast, expertise exchanges between the two countries, and a similar water profile (California was literally part of Mexico in the not so distant past) means it was only a matter of time before the Mexican beer scene was going to bloom.

That time is now, and while real estate for brewing is scarce in a city as dense as CDMX, there are a handful of breweries alongside many charming satellite taprooms representing producers based elsewhere in the country. Most of them are concentrated, unsurprisingly, in the gorgeous (albeit highly gentrified) Roma Norte and La Condesa neighbourhoods, which is also where many foreign visitors to the city stay (and if you are there for beer, is certainly where you should). The extreme gentrification is something to be cognisant of, yet it is encouraging to note that most indie beer venues in this guide, a diverse array and ordered by our “must visit” level, are owned and operated by Mexicans.

The indie beer community is still growing and figuring out where it fits into the wider Mexican boutique alcohol landscape; this means it is extremely supportive and welcoming, so go out there and enjoy a cerveza artisenale before getting too trashed on tequila or mezcal. Salud!

Pacheco

Best for: Overall experience; a beer or two before dinner, or after dinner; chatting to the bar team and locals.
Things to note: One of the original breweries in Roma Norte, Pacheco sits at the entrance to the hipster Mercado Roma. While the food market itself is an unremarkable 2010’s out-of-the-box setup that exists in most major cities, you don’t need to go inside to enjoy Pacheco (you can get food from the modern market stalls, though we wouldn’t necessarily recommend it given the foodie paradise that CDMX is).
Beer: Ten taps of their own concoctions run the gauntlet from classic Mexican styles like vienna lager, through to pale ales and all the way to coffee stouts. Every beer is high quality without necessarily blowing your mind, and the prices are fair for the area.
Vibe: Always buzzy, based around the open air bar underneath the market awning. This spills out onto the street with plenty of outdoor seating, informal areas to stand and drink, and easy opportunity to chat to regulars and other tourists alike. No reservations, unpretentious and very welcoming.
Warmth: The team here is particularly kind and well-informed, open to conversation and looking to bring people together around the bar area. Owner Esteban Pacheco is often on hand too, and knows everything about beer in the area, so have a chat and get more reccs.

Drunken Dog

Best for: Beer selection from indie breweries around Mexico.
Things to note: Mostly indoors in a fairly large and unremarkably decked out taproom, it gets BUSY; you can’t reserve, but be wary that at peak weekend evenings you may have a wait on your hands.
Beer: The best beer list in the city by miles, there are 20+ taps from all around the country. This is the perfect place to sample a wide variety of styles and breweries, especially if CDMX is your only stop. The prices are on the higher side – still cheaper than London, though.
Vibe: Busy though not overly noisy, with a variety of individuals, couples and groups. Unlike some other beer-focused bars we’ve been to over the years, everyone is a bit edgy and cool. It’s little like going back to the UK scene in 2017. Shed a tear.
Warmth: This is why Drunken Dog isn’t first on our list – it’s not exactly a warm welcome. Not only on multiple visits of our own but also from many anecdotes of local beer lovers, it is known to take itself a little seriously. A “wait to be seated” policy, no choice of which table to sit at (this is a taproom, not a high-end restaurant) and brusque service can sour your enjoyment (even if you are, ironically, drinking a sour).

Hercules – Lagerbar / Tienda de Cerveza

Best for: Drinking beer from the globally celebrated Hercules Brewery at two different bars.
Things to note: This blindsided us on our first visit – at both venues, you MUST order food with your beer. And, most of the food is not traditionally Mexican food. And, it’s not cheap. Hercules would be at the top of this guide without this peculiarity, yet given the food scene in the city, it feels like a waste of tummy space to eat here – but you gotta eat if you wanna treat. You decide if it’s worthwhile.
Beer: You are getting it close to the source, but Hercules Brewery is in…well, a town called Hercules, three hours from CDMX. The beer is fresh and exquisite regardless; there’s a reason they got big. The Lager Haus, shockingly, pours exclusively lagers with 6 on tap (and side pulls! They’ve made it here too!) while Tienda Cerveza has exclusively non-lagers, and the full variety of Hercules cans to drink in or takeaway. The prices are very reasonable given their hype, especially for can takeaways.
Vibe: Lager Haus is a mid-sized sit down space with both indoor and outdoor tables, which can be reserved. It’s always busy but finding a spot is doable due to the large bar area. Tienda Cerveza is the opposite, a tiny tasting room with one central table and a few stools and seats dotted around; standing room only is likely if you’re there Thurs-Sat in the evening. Makes it hard to eat that all-important food.
Warmth: The team is very helpful, providing tasters for all their beer and giving excellent guidance for cans too. Chatting to people at Lager Haus is unlikely, though at Tienda it’s almost impossible not to given how small the place is.

Yeccan Cerveceria

Best for: The perfect “wind down after a long day exploring” venue.
Things to note: They serve some decent food (well, they have tacos); they sometimes close earlier than advertised if they aren’t busy.
Beer: Brewed in a town a few hours away, the selection of styles here is probably the most interesting in the city, and all really quite fantastic. They have 15-20 taps, mostly their own alongside a handful of others from around the country. This is where you can branch out with local ingredients like maracuya and cacao. The prices are in line with the majority of others on this list.
Vibes: Fully chilling out with a great beer is the name of the game. A small room with an entirely open front, you’re covered from any potential rain but essentially outside. Low volume, ambient electronic music and locals playing board games or having an intimate chat contribute to a dreamy feel.
Warmth: Extremely friendly and welcoming, they give tasters of their beer (especially the unusual styles) and keep you replenished with free filtered water too – a small touch, but an important one in a hot city at altitude. This was our most visited venue overall, but we can see why the three above would carry more appeal for many visitors.

Falling Piano Brewing Co

Best for: Fun, energy and aesthetics.
Things to note: There is food, albeit a little boring, alongside a tonne of board games to play.
Beer: A solid core range brewed on site, firmly in “something for everyone” territory and also firmly in 7/10 territory. Nothing to complain about, nothing to miss out on tacos for.
Vibes: Huge, fun, and has a familiar US/UK feel – it’s the only place in our guide where you walk in and are like “oh THIS is a brewery”. It skews slightly younger and is decked out with greenery, cool artwork and yes, a literal falling piano hanging from the ceiling.
Warmth: Good, professional service without nuanced knowledge of the beers suits the environment overall. It’s table service only, meaning meeting locals could be a little tricky, so best attended with a friend or a group if you want to take advantage of the games.

Taproom Dos Aves

Best for: Bright colours, bright beer.
Things to note: A solid food menu with both a decent amount of indoor and outdoor space.
Beer: The styles aren’t too inventive but they do a wide variety of familiar things very well, at competitive prices for the area, particular a selection of west coast-style pale ales.
Vibes: Bustling and busy despite being on a quiet street, it opens on the later side and takes a bit of time to get going. There are a wide range of people here, from those having after work drinks to groups in their early 20s enjoying themselves.
Warmth: Professional table service which doesn’t quite lend itself to tasters, it likewise probably isn’t where you’ll get chatting to people you don’t know but everyone is pretty nice.

Morenos Tasting Room

Best for: Local haunt, hoppy beer.
Things to note: Quite small, all indoors, no food, and occasionally closes earlier than stated if not busy.
Beer: Known around the local scene for excelling with their hoppy beers. We know how often that is said, but this is the only place in the guide to choose the hoppy beers over other styles.
Vibes: Low key and with many regulars, it’s a small, dark but sleek taproom between La Condesa and Roma Norte and you’d miss it if you didn’t know it was there. People are friendly, though, and while its dark, you could easily enjoy a couple of contemplative solo beers here, or hang out with a group.
Warmth: The bartenders know their stuff and are happy to give opinions, especially since the beer styles are fairly similar (hoppy beers amirite). The age skews a little older and we met some very cool people here, so don’t be afraid to try it even if it looks a little underwhelming from outside.

Brisa Taproom

Best for: Convenience in Roma Norte; People watching.
Things to note: It’s pretty new and absolutely tiny, with space for about 12 people max across just two indoor and two outdoor tables.
Beer: Showcasing four taps from Canneria brewery out in XYZ, the quality is there across three core styles and one rotating option.
Vibes: There isn’t too much of anything happening here given its size, but it sits on one of the most energetic streets in the heart of Roma Norte, and is next door to the always-happening X bar, meaning that you get their good-times satellite vibes drifting over while being able to drink a nice beer. If you want to observe the bourgeois of Roma Norte, this is a great perch.
Warmth: Very nice people in there, who will take some music requests and happily chit chat if it’s a quiet night (which it probably will be). This a convenience stop more than anything, but worth it if you feel compelled.

La Roma Brewing

Best for: Space; Waiting for a table at one of the nearby restaurants.
Things to note: There is a food option, but if you’re around here you will be wanting food at one of the several world-leading restaurants that happen to be on the same block.
Beer: Honestly (and we’re always honest) it was passable but definitely not something we felt compelled to return to. They do have a large tap list and we obviously didn’t try all of it, so might have missed something.
Vibes: There are two spacious, connected rooms that oddly span two parallel streets; the one with the brewing tanks, which always seemed to be sparsely populated but has a sleek and inviting aesthetic, and the one that feels more like a café on the same side as the restaurants.
Warmth: Not unfriendly per se, though a little stand-offish, you’re really here for a beer before your meal at the intensely popular El Parnita, Expendio de Maiz or Paramo (pro tip: IF YOU CAN BOOK AT TABLE AT ONE OF THESE, DO SO, AND DON’T BE LATE!)

Others
Choices abound for great beer in CDMX, though one notable missing element from the scene is the presence of craft beer shops. Almost everywhere in this guide does takeaway cans should you want to sip in your hotel or bring stuff home, with the best selection at Drunken Dog or Hercules. There are a couple of other spots for indie beer elsewhere in the city, such as Cerveceria Xolotl in Centro and Fiebre de Malta in Juarez but realistically you’ll be in those areas for other reasons and if you want to experience the best of what CDMX has to offer, it’s all about the locations above.

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