A Beer Tourist’s Guide To…Ghent

Google “good beer in Ghent” and you’ll be sent down a rabbit hole of epic proportions, so much so that your paralysis of choice may render you incapable of even sipping a Belgian Blond let alone a 12% Tripel.

We don’t claim to be the most in depth guide to the city – there are literally hundreds of quality drinking holes. What we do claim to be, however, is a nice and straightforward, well-curated and kinda fun to read guide that will ensure any curious beer tourist plays the hits, knows what they’re getting into and leaves satiated (and in need of many a frite to balance the booze).

Here are five must-visit stops, all of which are within walking distance in Ghent’s compact old town. Each will bring a different flavour to your experience, with the priority on local, independent beer of the highest order in various atmospheric settings. Proost op onze lever!

Gitane

Make this your priority. Gitane is right on one of the busiest cobbled streets, right off the canal, and yet maintains old school, independent charm generated by the constant presence of its owners, who have presided over this beer temple for three decades. The beer list is exquisite, curated rather than endless, with no space to really go wrong. The space inside is crowded yet cosy, and the seats outside afford an unrivalled opportunity for people watching on a crisp afternoon. Note the narrow opening hours, and if visiting on a weekend, get there within half an hour of the doors or towards closing time if you want to ensure a table.

Cafe De Welkom

The town centre outpost of local hype brewery Dok Brewing Co., this small, bright venue exclusively serves their beers, and you won’t be disappointed, especially with award winning flagship pilsner “13”. There are charcuterie boards to accompany, and a small outdoor seating area on the pedestrian street should the weather be appropriate. If you have the time, head north half an hour on foot to the taproom itself, with a similar beer list in a large, brick warehouse space.

Dulle Griet

One of our most essential travel rules was made to be broken someday, and Dulle Griet takes the accolade. The rule is as follows:

Never, ever, eat or drink somewhere on a main town square.

Dulle Griet caters to tourists because it is on the main town square, but carries with it a formidable and very well-priced beer list that means in our eyes it is not a tourist trap. It contains an additional gimmick that could be accused of such, but embrace the absurdity: you can order your beer in a giant two litre trumpet, but to do so, you have to temporarily donate one of your shoes. You read it correctly – you give them a shoe, they give you a giant trumpet-shaped glass full of beer. Your shoe goes up into the roof in a giant net, and when you finish playing on that trumpet, you get your shoe back. Simple, right?

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant

A Ghent institution that we’ve been frequenting since our first visit in 2012, Het Waterhuis is perched beautifully on the canal and practically begs you to come for a drink on its terrace or inside its traditional rustic interior. It is well known by tourists now, so while its prices have risen to match and its beer list is not as indie-focused as it once was, you’ll still be able to indulge in some of the more mainstream Belgian favourites like Chimay, Westmalle and Delirium in a beautiful setting both inside and out.

antiek-depot market15

Yep, it’s spelled exactly like we wrote it, and no, we’re not posting a picture. Step into another world, one of relentless visual stimulation in this substantial antique shop/cafe/bar. Pick up a beer from a small but classic selection, and wander around deciding which items you would bring home with you if you had infinite space and hadn’t spent all your money on beer the past few years. This is a unique Ghent experience for a fairly early tipple and one we highly recommend even if you don’t feel like a beer just yet.

Go on, put us out of our misery – if you’re a Ghent Frequenter (Freghuenter?) what have we missed that you would substitute into our list, and more importantly, what would you substitute out for it?