A Beer Tourist’s Guide to…Chiang Mai
Thai indie beer is on the rise right now, and while its epicentre is undoubtedly Bangkok, the gorgeous Northern city of Chiang Mai is starting to catch up. Chiang Mai itself is a globally-renowned hub for artistry and creativity, so a craft beer boom was never going to be far away. Complex laws around brewing have limited output for many years, but last year’s shift in licensing policy has allowed new horizons to be reached, as detailed in my article for Pellicle Magazine. This guide focuses on visitors to Chiang Mai, specifically written from the perspective of a tourist.
The first independent brewery in decades to be fully based in Chiang Mai recently opened, and with Sucking Stones, the Thai-British co-owners Chairat and Simon have been on quite the journey. Having worked on various endeavours together over the past decade and sharing a passion for great beer, they were keeping a close eye on the Thai alcohol legislation that shifted in early 2023. While it wasn’t everything brewers in the country had hoped for, “it made a local brewery possible, if not quite easy”, they say. The pair received their full brewing license in late 2024, with the onsite brewery pumping out all sorts of beer styles to entice local beer aficionados.
Their brewery sits in the modern neighbourhood of Nimman, a ten minute drive from the Old Town. Nimman is saturated with local Thai design boutiques, scattered with multitudes of cool restaurants and cafes, and let’s be honest, teeming with hipsters. The area tends to go under the radar of the quick-stop Chiang Mai tourist, but it shouldn’t; this is where locals hang out and is fast becoming the destination for local craft, whether fashion, food or beer.
Alongside Sucking Stones, the somewhat uncreatively-named Chiang Mai Craft Beer is a bar that established itself in the heart of Nimman in winter 2023 (winter being defined by UK months and not at all by weather) and boasts several taps of local beer, along with a huge fridge selection of Thai and Asian craft. It’s a small yet airy place with indoor and outdoor seats and lends itself perfectly to a crisp sip of a variety of styles.
Nearby is the latest outpost of My Beer Friend, a Chiang Mai craft beer institution that has several branches in different parts of the city. It has a more hostel-bar feel to it, but the selection is certainly on point and is a great option for those looking for something moodier and more social.
The Nimman craft beer crawl then reaches its crescendo: “Chit Hole” in the heart of the One Nimman outdoor shopping complex, sees the latest foray from Chit Beer of Bangkok. It comes with with an unrivalled 15 draft taps of Thai beer, an edgy vibe and an eclectic mix of both Chit Beer fans and random wanderers who stumble in looking for a break from their One Nimman fashion odyssey.
In Chiang Mai Old Town, options are somewhat limited and much pricier. Mind Café is a small, laid back venue that has a small selection of local taps with a decent fridge offering, while Yellow Pug is a dark, bougie hole in the wall that also has a short but strong draft list. Finally, with the largest beer list in the city by far, Renegade is the place to go try anything you can’t find elsewhere, though it is more of a US-style sports bar in atmosphere and it’s pricey, even by UK standards.
Wherever you end up, Chiang Mai is a universally friendly and open city. There are often beer popups happening in various markets, and occasionally a restaurant will stock something from a Thai independent brewery. Go out, support independent Thai beer, and most importantly speak to whoever you end up sitting next to – the best way to learn about Northern Thai culture.