A Beer Tourist’s Guide To…Riga, Latvia
They’re saying Baltic Porter’s not a thing, but you should tell them no – it is a thing, and Riga will prove it.
With a rich history of brewing that stemmed from some banter and tension between the UK and the Russian Imperialists in the 1800s, the UK weren’t allowed to do much trade with the region at the time and therefore our delicious, warm ales were unable to gain popularity. Local breweries jumped at the chance to satiate the pallets of the locals through the cold, hard winters with dark, warming beers high in alcohol. The British Empire wasn’t going to just sit there and have no influence whatsoever, though, so the name Porter (originating in London) still infiltrated the 19th Century Rigan beer scene, but got a geographical twist, and the Baltic Porter was born.
Times have changed, however, and with the modern day beer imperialists in the USA spreading their hops left, right and centre, IPAs and hoppy ales are now the most prevalent beer style in Latvia, with export-focused breweries such as Arpus taking advantage of the hype. The hipsters won’t be silenced, however, and Baltic Porter is slowly making a comeback.
The real winner out of all this ends up being funky beers brewed with local ingredients. With simple base recipes that are then messed about with basically anything natural that Latvian brewers can get their hands on, the hoppy and dark beers are having to make space for these style-defying flavours which are finding favour with locals and beer tourists alike.
Riga being the capital, it is likely where you will start your Latvian adventure and while only a couple of breweries actually reside here, Latvia isn’t very big, so you will find beers from the whole country, fresh and ready for you to try, in a variety of cosy, edgy or traditional establishments. So without further ado, here are the best places to find local beer in Riga, Latvia. Bog Honey, anyone?
Labietis Brewery
One of the Riga craft beer OGs and a firm favourite with locals, Labietis has remained small batch with a major focus on using local ingredients such as heather, thyme, and bog water. The beers are ever changing, they all taste completely different and they are incredibly affordable. The taproom itself is a cool little modern space just north of the centre and is open nice and late so you can try some Latvian myrtle leaves right before bed time.
Valmiermuiza Taproom
Just around the corner from Labietis is the Riga “embassy” for Valmiermuiza Brewery, which itself is located around a hundred miles away. The taproom is smart and modern, with beers from their own brewery on tap along with those from other independent Latvian breweries. The room also encompasses a shop with beer from EVERY independent brewery in Latvia, so if the draft list isn’t long enough just crack open a can or bottle of something you’ve never heard of and will likely never find again.
Lauvas Alus
A little hipster beer shop with a few seats for drink in, it’s full of passion and also full of Latvian beers at very competitive price points, especially for the drink in that we recommend. Otherwise, take something to go and walk on over to your next stop.
Nurme Bar
At the time of writing (April 2024) the Nurme brewery taproom is closed, but the brewery churns on, producing phenomenal beers of all shapes and sizes. This is their city bar, and while not quite as quaint as Labietis, Nurme is really about the mainstream beer styles with one random thing thrown in (see: Horseradish Ale), and a few big hitters in the Stout department. Friendly, passionate staff will guide you through their beer list and ensure you leave loving their stuff.
Alus Rume Trofeja
Up the road from Nurme is Latvia’s Smallest Brewery (they say it out loud with capitals for first letters, trust me). Rume Trofeja popped up very recently, brew quite literally behind the bar, and what they brew is delicious. This is a real locals haunt with excellent, fresh beers that traverse classic styles, and a must-visit in the Riga beer scene.
Alus Celle
A one man operation, Alus Celle is a rustic basement haunt with passionate regulars and an extremely knowledgeable, friendly owner. They have a couple of local beers on tap but their main draw is their can selection and the conversation that inevitably strikes up between everyone sitting in there.
Kakis Maisa
Right in the heart of the old town, beer flights are the name of the game here. Choose from a large rotating local taplist and if weather permits, sit outside gazing at the old city walls and imagining you’re in a different era. The inside is a little underground room that runs more chill than your usual old town bar.
Ala Pagrabs
If an epic finish is what you need, this is your place. “Ala” is maybe the most well-known bar in all of Riga, and still manages to boast a phenomenal beer list from the larger independent Latvian breweries. This huge basement venue is home to some of the best local folk dancing you’ll see, along with huge hearty meals and jovial bartenders. A great night out is guaranteed, and on the beer front they keep it simple: you’re essentially choosing from either “light” or “dark” beer across six or seven breweries, so decide your time of day and order away – you can’t really go wrong.